YO! I started playing football again this year and made this badass all-in-one hijab hoody for myself. It’s a single layer t-shirt-weight hoody with a built-in face mask (sewn into the front of the hood) that you pull down under your chin to cover your neck. I got the trousers above from ASOS in case you were wondering.
Basically how this works is that you can download the patterns below and get them printed (I explain how below) then buy your fabric and either get your granny to make it for you or take it to a seamstress (or have a go yourself! But do some research first on what the markings on the patterns mean if it’s your first time).
BEFORE I BEGIN
You’ll notice the patterns I’ve put up for download have the front and back in one piece rather than being broken up into 3 sections (i.e. yellow, light grey and dark grey like the pictures). I wanted to make it less complicated in case you’re attempting clothesmaking yourself for the first time. Less pieces = less can go wrong.
1) Read all the information below regarding fabric, trims, stitching and seams. IT’S REALLY IMPORTANT YOU DO THIS. THANKS.
2) Download the pdf from below called “Patterns DO NOT SCALE WHEN PRINTING.pdf”. Get them printed at an online printer/plotter (cheapest way). From this place (for example). The patterns comprise of 2 x A0 sheets. You only need black and white print and ask for the cheapest paper (layout, marker, etc) possible. Ask them to send your printouts folded rather than rolled.
IMPORTANT! Specifically ask the printer “DO NOT SCALE ARTWORK”.
3) When you receive your printouts, cut out the size you need (look at the size chart). You’ll see each size has its own designated line-type (different types of dashed).
4) Print out “Tech Pack.pdf” from below on your home printer (it’s A4).
5) Take your cut-out pattern pieces, along with your fabric and the tech pack printout to your seamstress (or granny).
6) Do sport looking like a badass.
Option 1) I recommend you use something like mock eyelet for this (I have used this in the pictures). This wicks away sweat so keeps you dry. Only problem is that since it’s polyester, it’ll make you smell quite bad if worn for a prolonged time. If you can find anti-bacterial mock eyelet, all the better, since this will make you smell less bad.
Option 2) Use a cotton jersey (jersey=stretchy) fabric if it’s easier to find. Ideally you want something which isn’t 100% cotton. Use anything like 5-20% elastane/ lycra with the remaining 80-95% cotton. This means it won’t shrink in the wash every time you wash it and also will move better as you perform. If you DO use 100% cotton, pre-wash and tumble dry your fabric so that it does the majority of the shrinking beforehand. If you’re buying fabric online, you want a t-shirt weight, like 130-160gsm. Get a printed fabric, maybe geometric for coolness or leopard print for girlyness. You will need 2 metres of fabric.
Although the one photographed doesn’t have a drawcord, it’s a nice touch for the version I’ve provided patterns for. You can use a shoelace of a colour that works with your fabric that’s around 125cm in length and around 12mm wide.
This bit is super important. When you sew stretchy fabric you need to use an overlocker, which stops the threads from breaking when you stretch the fabric –the overlock threads stretch with the fabric whereas a straight stitch would snap. Usually in factories the two pieces of fabric are sewn directly together using an overlocker without using a normal machine first –and because of this seam allowances on pattern pieces are 0.5cm. However, it’s highly unlikely that your local seamstress etc will be familiar with this process (jersey/ stretch fabric apparel manufacture is highly specialised). SO! What I do is that I sew it normally with a 1cm seam allowance then overlock the seam, but directly on top of the straight stitch, which removes around half of the seam width. This is what I mean using pictures, which you should show to the person making it (I’ve put in on the tech pack available for download). Look inside any t-shirt you own, you should be aiming for that kind of finished seam in terms of width.
On the finished drawing of the hood (on the downloadable tech pack), at the sleeve ends and face mask there’s a zig zag stitch. This, again, is to allow the fabric to stretch (straight stitch would snap). Normally this be done as a cover stitch (or “twin needle”) but again, that machine is quite specialised and not every seamstress is going to have it. So the zig zag is a good replacement, but do ask the place you’re taking it to (or your poor granny) if they have a twin needle machine as this would be preferable.
Yalla make it!